When in Berlin...

Locus

2009-02-19T15:06:00.000-08:00

Marteinekeplatz 4, 10961 Berlin
Tel 6915637www.locus-berlin.de
U-Bahn Line U7: Gneisenaustraße

Open daily 10.00 – 01.30 (food served until 23.30)

Situated on what you'd have to describe as 'a charming little square', complete with trees, fountain and birdsong, this Mexican cafe/bar/restaurant is a lovely place to while away the afternoon with friends over a leisurely lunch, or just to drop in and gather yourself with a coffee and cake combp. The mouth-watering menu boasts all manner of Mexican specialities; truly scrumptious homemade cakes and a rather impressive breakfast list. Yes indeed, there is little doubt as to which is the most important meal of the day here. Whether it’s Rome-, Paris- or New York-style; the massive two-person morning platter, or just a bowl of cereal you’re after, you’ll be set up for the day ahead after breaking your fast at Locus.

Not a morning person? No matter. With its tranquil setting and attentive service, Locus is popular at any time of day. Great coffee, homemade ice tea, delicious home-bakes (try the redcurrant meringue pie) and after-work cocktail offers ensure there is no lull between mealtimes. While the street-side dining feels distinctly continental, the beautiful, high-ceilinged cantina in back is markedly Mexican and it’s not difficult to forget for a moment that it’s Berlin you’re in.

You may feel this picture has little to do with anything... Does that really matter? It was on the door of the café though.

A Tour or Two

2009-02-19T14:52:00.000-08:00

Brewers Free Walking Tour

Starting from the Altes Museum on Museum Insel daily at 1.30pm
www.brewersberlintours.com

One of the best walking tours in the city and it’s free. Good news, no?

From the initial meeting with your guide, on the steps of Berlin’s first museum, you’ll pick up on the relaxed tone that makes this tour what it is. Beginning with a quick and casual context-setting in the Lustgarten, your out-going leader will take you around the most important and impressive places from the city’s history, starting with a stroll along once-upon-a-time royal boulevard Unter den Linden and finishing up at the impressive icon that is the Brandenburg Gate. The tour lasts three and a half hours with a short break for lunch at Checkpoint Charlie, where you can pick up a quick bite from one of the many fast food vendors around. Bearing in mind the chatty style of trip, you might be surprised to come away having learned rather a lot with zero effort.

Brewers guides work on a tips-only basis, paying 5€ to the guys in charge for each person who takes the tour. If you reckon it was worth it, be generous.

Sandeman’s NewBerlin Free Bike Tour

Starting from the corner of Oranienburger-straße and Tucholsky-straße daily at 11am and 3pm
S-Bahn Line S1: Oranienburger-straße
www.neweuropetours.eu

Another lovely free tour and this time with bikes. Oh yes.

Sandeman’s New Europe has been on the go since 2003, offering informally informative tours aimed at the budget-minded traveller. This two-wheeled version of the already popular walking tour is perfect if the idea of seeing the whole city on foot isn’t your cup of tea. The group meets outside the old post office, which during WWII was the base for the SS to keep tabs on mail. From here, you’re led to the bullet-riddled shed round the back of the building to get acquainted with your bike and then you’re off. The three-and-a-half-hour tour covers all of the must-sees, plus a few extras, starting with Berlin’s first Jewish synagogue and ending with an energetic, solo re-enactment by your guide of the events leading up to the fall of the wall. Graduates from top universities around the globe, the laid-back guides are seriously clued-up on the city’s history and able to answer even the most obscure of questions. Seriously, just ask.

The tour and bike are free but you will need to bring some photo ID and a 15€ deposit.

The NewBerlin guys earn only what they receive in tips from you and have to pay 5€ per head to the big administrative types for maintenance and the like. Bear this in mind and pay what you think the tour was worth, or at least what you can.

Tukadu

2009-02-19T14:25:00.000-08:00

Rosenthalerstraße 46/47
Tel 4455196
www.tukadu.com
U-Bahn Line U8: Weinmeisterstraße

Open: Mon – Saturday 11.00 – 20.00

A jewellery shop with a difference, the idea behind Tukadu is to provide customers with the means to make their own trinkets - whether that's at home with bits and bobs bought, or in-store with the help of the envy-inspiringly cool team of creative types that work here. Drawers, compartments and boxes are full to brimming with all manner of beads, bows, feather, flowers, butterflies... Basically anything you need to make some serious statement jewellery. Inspiration is crammed into every spare space: completed pieces hang, gilt-framed, all over the walls; a golden cherub fights for airspace with a crystal chandelier overhead, and earring-sporting blowfish dangle in the display window. If you’re not all that artistic, or you see something you like, or you just can’t stand the heat (the beast of a fan in the doorway isn’t all that effective) you can actually buy up any of the pieces on display and bask in endless the compliments on your creativity wherever you go.

Crafty.

The Circus Café

2009-02-19T09:17:00.000-08:00

Weinbergsweg 1a, 10119 Berlin
Tel 28391433
www.circus-berlin.de U-Bahn Line U8: Rosenthalerplatz

Part of the “famous” Circus Hostel, this café is rather a good spot to meet other, English-speaking travellers. With the customary cream and cappuccino-coloured walls and dark wooden furniture; low-lighting and an acoustic playlist of James Blunt-a-likes, Circus has that familiar feeling. Offering gourmet coffees, freshly-squeezed OJ and a range of sandwiches and salads at not unreasonable prices; it is a formula we’ve seen before. The staff is made up of bright, friendly and multi-lingual young things, some of whom are good for a chat. A nice touch is the novel idea they’ve had of creating a space where customers can sit and listen to “The Sounds of Berlin” on a set of headphones. Order your coffee; set yourself down on a pouf and start your “free ride into the acoustical landscape... and into one of the most diverse and inspiring musical cultures worldwide!”

Mmm... nice.

*If you are one of the three people unfamiliar with how to operate an iPod, instructions are handily provided and framed, even.

Stiefelkombinat

2009-02-19T07:32:00.000-08:00

Eberswalder-Straße 21-22
10437 Berlin
Tel 51051234

If you’re the type of person whose outfit is not complete without a conversation piece, Stiefelkombinat simply must be added to your itinerary. As you walk up Eberswalder-Straße, on the left hand side, you’ll stumble across what looks like the yard sale you’ve been waiting for all your life. Pick your way through the tempting taster rails out front (careful not to tread on the deliberate scatter of shoes and bags) and you’ll arrive at an impressive display of red short-shorts. Darling, you have arrived! And you may not be back for some time...

To cross the threshold of the women’s store (once again looking out for stray shoes) is to enter a wonderland of vintage one-offs. It’s all a bit exciting. From gorgeous 40s dresses to loud 80s shell suits, this place has everything you could wish for in terms of original designs. The range of unique accessories is scrumptious, with silky scarves spilling out of dressing-up boxes; chunky belts and bangles piled up-up on a 70s dresser; stacked hat boxes full to brimming with gloves, muffs and hoods, and pretty parasols propped at odd angles along the wall. If you’ve forgotten to pack your bikini, this is the place to pick up the kind of seriously stylish swimwear that’ll score you major cool points at the Badeschiff. The choice of footwear on offer is ridiculous and if you can’t find what you’re after, I’m sure one of the disgustingly stylish assistants will eat their fedora.

The boys need not feel left out, as right next-door is menswear. A little smaller than its sister, this store ought to please jacks of all tastes; from the classic and smooth, to the bold and edgy – it’s all here. The variety of spiffy hats on offer is particularly wonderful.

And it doesn’t end there. Knick-knack junkies are also catered for. From 70s light fittings and coat hooks; to baby-dolls and cuddly toys; to out-of-print banknotes and retro magazines, there’s many a nostalgic delight to be had at Stiefelkombinat.

Not extortionate but hardly thrifty, you get what you pay for here.

You are aware that they just don’t make ‘em like they used to, right?

SpaceHall

2009-02-18T09:53:00.000-08:00

Zossenerstraße 33, 10961 Berlin
Tel 030/6947664
www.spacehall.de
U-Bahn Line U7: Gneisenaustraße

Mon - Friday 11.00-20.00; Saturday 11.00-19.00

“I don’t give a f*** what’s on your iPod.”

Not one for mincing words, SpaceHall has a clear idea of what good music means and is dedicated to providing Berliners with it. Claiming the city’s best vinyl collection of Techno and an offensively impressive range of electronic music, this multi-levelled grotto is one of Berlin’s most famous record stores. Unlike a lot of specialist retailers, SpaceHall doesn’t immediately smack its visitors with that you’d-better-know-everything-there-is-to-know-about-music feeling the second you cross the threshold.

The atmosphere in the main part of the store is relaxed; with Downbeats interrupting light Drum ‘n’ Bass only to be cut off again as the guy behind the cash desk decides it’s time for the next tune. Here you’ll find a nice variety of CDs and DVDs; button badges and accessories, and what appears to be the entire Kraftwerk back-catalogue hanging on a wall flanked by Flat Eric dolls in cuffs and studs. Obviously.

Through to the back of the store and down the few steps to the right, that feeling of being the little kid in the big boys’ playground could creep up on those unschooled in the art of Techno. Though the assistant casually having a fag behind the counter does insist on playing his choices just shy of full-blast; six decks with ‘phones are lined up, ready and waiting for customers to sample whichever of the vast selection takes their interest. Downstairs again is the huge Electro and Minimal section: oddly quiet considering the absurd amount of sound housed in here, you’re practically guaranteed to find what you’re after in terms of electronic vinyl.

And if you’re after House... It’s in the attic.

SpaceHonda
Zossenerstraße 35
10961 Berlin
www.myspace.com/spacehonda

Mon – Friday 11.00-20.00; Saturday 11.00-19.00

SpaceHall’s little brother in both senses, this store sells only vinyl. New and second-hand; stock includes imports, overstocks, singles, maxis and LPs. An array of everything from Dubstep to Gothic to Disco can be found here with a bit of digging. Some t-shirts, picture discs and VHS tapes are also on offer.

Lŭxŭs International

2009-02-18T09:41:00.000-08:00

Kastanienallee 101, 10435 Berlin

Tel 44324877
www.luxus-international.de
U-Bahn Line U2: Eberswalderstraße

Open: Mon – Saturday 11:00 – 20:00

Want to buy something good, but can’t quite think what it is you need? Set coordinates for Lŭxŭs. Next door to Hot Dog World, it would be all too easy to just walk past the three postcard stands out front of this wee shop, and keep on going. But a glance at the stunning snaps of old and new Berlin will make you stop; and the naughty “pulp fiction” covers (with such eye-catching titles as ‘Queer Beach’ and ‘I Married a Dead Man’) will reel you right in. Lŭxŭs provides a space for Berlin-based designers to sell their wares, with each artist renting a cubicle in a large shelf. Just about anyone can sell their creations from here - the only stipulations are that designs are unique and cost less than 30€. Need to stock up on Mapkins? (That’s napkins with maps on.) This is the place. This is also the place to splurge on street scene lampshades; cool canvas prints; impressive coffee table books; quirky button badges; cheeky flick-books and of course ‘Top Trumps: Popes Edition’. Lŭxŭs’s cracking range of Berlin souvenirs is the good kind of kitsch, and a refreshing change to the usual junk found on the tourist trail – and there’s not one fragment-of-the-Berlin-wall-on-a-keychain in sight. No, sir.

Check out the wall-mount behind the door for flyers and free passes to the best clubs and don’t forget to pick up your complimentary cherry lollipop before you leave.

Kurfürstendamm

2009-02-18T09:37:00.000-08:00

U-Bahn Line U1: Kurfürstendamm

If you’re in the mood to part with your cash effortlessly, Kurfürstendamm is as good a place as any to satisfy your deepest desires for all things High Street. Easily reachable by U-Bahn, Ku’damm is lined by flagship store after flagship store, including H&M, Zara, Mango, Nike and Adidas.

If all the spending gets to be just too much, take a breather with a crêpe or a Currywurst on the shady steps in front of the breath-taking Gedächtniskirche, or soak your weary feet in the beautiful fountain nearby.

As you’d expect, Saturday afternoon on Ku’damm can be a bit of a nightmare for those wishing to get anything done quickly - or indeed anyone who values personal space. Check it out through the week for an altogether more pleasurable retail experience.

Kaufhaus Des Westens is at the top end of Ku’Damm in both senses of the term. This 100 year old department store has nine floors stylishly packed with a range of products from over 60 different countries. Boasting big labels, Ka De We is a little pricey, but it’s worth checking out solely for the gourmet wonderland on the 6^th floor.

Interesting fact: the space in the Basement of Ka De We is a dedicated kennel. So if your pooch is too pooped to purchase, or you keep getting tangled in the lead, you can drop him off here and get some proper shopping done.

Konnopke's Imbiss

2009-02-18T09:32:00.000-08:00

Under the bridge at Eberswalder-Straße U-Bahn Station (U2)

www.konnopke-imbiss.de

“When it comes to sausage, it’s all about tradition and taste.”

So is the motto of Konnopke; the popular fast-food cabin nestled under a railway bridge, that’s been doing a roaring trade for over 75 years. A far cry from the staff of spotty youths typical to convenience food outlets back home, here you will encounter an altogether more mature workforce; ruddy-faced, friendly and quite clearly serious about their sausage. This crack team proudly and efficiently serves the seemingly endless but always fast-moving queue. All the usual hot bites are available, including [but by no means limited to] Schnitzel, meatballs and a lovely Currywurst. With every snack under 2.50€, it’s super easy on the pocket too. Cold filled rolls are also on offer for just under 1€ each and “Happy Hour” every day from 5pm sees all Brötchen slashed to just 0.60€.

Konnopke’s is the perfect stop to grab something on the run, though people-watching from out front is worthwhile if you’ve nowhere in particular to be. While there is some bench seating (complete with cushions and gazebo, no less), the standing-room-only tables directly in front of the serving area are a more interesting choice as you never know quite with whom you’ll end up chatting. If, however, holding a polite conversation with a mouthful of Wiener proves a bit too much of a challenge, amuse yourself with the bona fide art that graces the columns nearby. With the food consistently tasty and the value for money always excellent, there’s little doubt that Konnopke’s will still be satisfying the masses another 75 years from now.

Konnopke’s Imbiss is open Monday to Friday, from 6am to 8pm and Saturdays from 12 until 7pm.

GOOD (n.b. the capitals G-O-O-D)

2009-02-18T09:26:00.000-08:00

Although burgers and hotdogs are popular worldwide, Germany hasn’t really gained the global recognition for its food that pasta, tapas and sushi has. The only possible reason for this is that I can see is that it’s just not that sexy. But then, adjectives like ‘nice’ and ‘honest’ don’t tend to evoke in us burning passion, and rarely do the words ‘simple’ and ‘wholesome’ leave us quivering...

But worry not! This is not some cheap attempt to sexify the sausage (as if it needed it) but just a bit of a nudge to encourage you to Give Wurst a Chance.

Traditional German fare is like a great big hug from a family member you actually like, or from the best friend you’ve missed a lot. It’s real and it’s easy and it’s comforting. (If you hate your family and have no friends, eat German and you won’t care.)

You know exactly where you are with this food. You don’t have to worry about what you order because if the menu says “Bratwurst with fried potatoes and sauerkraut”, that’s exactly what you’re going to get, which is quite lovely really. Then, when your meal arrives, take one look at your plate and you can identify everything on it. How nice is that? And a German meal is a proper meal: it’s filling and it’s good for you and it tastes really, really nice.

Unsexy as it may be, there is no denying that German food is good. Damn good. And who doesn’t like good food?

Speisen-Gaststätte zum Schusterjungen
Danziger-Straße 9, 10435 Berlin
Tel 4427654

A bit of a mouthful, right..? But if you’ve still got room in there, and you’re after some traditional grub, this little place is worth stopping in at. Offering daily specials, and a selection of fresh-baked cakes, a husband and wife team run this unassuming inn, open every day until midnight. Expect tasty German fare; unpretentious recipes made with good ingredients. Service is quick and friendly - though if you are seated outside, the waitress may take a while to notice you at first. Prices are very reasonable, with snacks and soups from 2.50€ and main courses averaging around 7.50€. Drinks and desserts are cheaper than elsewhere, so go on and enjoy a full meal just like Mutti used to make. The menu is in German, so if your Deutsch is less than wunderbar and you don’t fancy risking it, go for the Bratwurst or the Schnitzel.

MiKa
Graefe-Straße

The kind of lazy avenue that you just know is going to be ‘so in’ given a few years, Graefe-Straße has a peaceful calm to it: a calm, in which the constant birdsong is sweet, rather than irritating, and the sound of piano music on the breeze is soothing, rather than cheesy. Inside dingy bar; outside relaxed dining, MiKa is one of several eateries on the street and a winner if you’re after a quick and easy lunch. The menu offers up a good selection of mostly German dishes and bar food. A nice old guy with an equally nice moustache holds down the fort with a little help from his barfly chums, who are more than happy to take orders if he’s in the back. Service is casually efficient and portions are great-value huge. Not exactly gourmet cuisine, but the food is tasty and inexpensive, and the atmosphere pretty darn pleasant.

Fotoautomaten

2009-02-18T09:19:00.000-08:00

Remember the days when you and your friends all piled into a photo-booth, made stupid faces and then waited the four minutes outside, with no idea what the pictures would look like? Well, these days are back. And they are back on Kastanienallee (just up from Luxus International) and all over the trendy bits of Berlin. For 2€ you can relive the time before that sultry lady-voice told you to “press the green button when you’re ready” and gave you the option for another go. Another go?! This original booth doesn’t care if you’re ready; four flashes and you’re done, thank you very much. And the photos are black and white. Mmm, arty. With each picture on the strip different, prepare to fight for the snap you want if you’ve got to share. Sort your hair out before you go in – the first flash is a doozy.

Al Hamra

2009-02-18T09:14:00.001-08:00

Raumerstraße 16, 10437 Berlin
Tel 42850095
www.alhamra.de
U-Bahn Line U2: Eberwalderstraße

Nestled on one of the quieter streets of the fashionable Prenzlauer Berg district, Al Hamra is an Arabic cafe/bar popular with locals and visitors alike. This place definitely has that lived-in feel; with old wooden furniture dotted around the place, and faded cushions and couches providing a comfortable setting for a leisurely lunch over a friendly game of Scrabble or chess (boards available behind the bar). The atmosphere here is delightfully laid-back and if you plump for the couch seating option, you may find it a struggle to summon the will to leave. As the sun sets, the tea-lights come out and the soul soundtrack eases into traditional tones more befitting of an Arabian night that a German one. The menu is packed with a nice choice of tasty traditional dishes, many of which are available in sandwich or salad form. When the waitress comes to take your drink order go for the Ingwer Limonade. This is lemonade as it’s supposed to be; made-to-order, using an absurd amount of lemons and just a touch of ginger.
Lip-smacking is the word.

(Yum is the other word.)